Endless Journey

And the pilgrim walks and walks knowing that the goal is never clear nor important, but the journey is endless and enlightening.

Many of these pilgrims (now good friends) that I have come across keep on walking, again and again, either physically or spiritually. Many don't really know where they are heading, but all know that the journey is what makes us grow and gives us the strength to carry on with our dreams.

"Caminante, no hay camino... Se hace el camino al andar".

"Traveler, there is no path... the path is made by walking".

O Cebreiro Village

On the French route of the Camino de Santiago in Spain, lies a tiny village at the entrance of the Galician province. Sitting on top of a dreaded 1300 meters high mountain pilgrims have to climb (I don't know why.. I enjoyed it!), O Cebreiro, although appearing like a slumbering old village, played quite an important role in the history of the region.

While I was lucky to have a good weather during both my stays (good but freezing), O Cebreiro usually likes to hide under a mysterious foggy blanket. After reaching the Galician border, I felt its presence without seeing it. A faint music was floating all around, transported by the mist. The fog magically disappeared both times I arrived on top of a hill overlooking the old village.
The first thing I noticed was the music. It sounded like Irish music. Celtic to be more precise. Even the architecture of some houses was different with big round stone houses and straw roofs (called pallozas). I later learned that Galicia was of Celtic culture, some even claiming the Irish Celts originated from there.

The main attraction of O Cebreiro however is the pre-Romanesque church of St. Mary, the oldest fully remaining one on the Camino. It played an important part in guiding the pilgrim through the mist with its bell.
The church of St Mary also owes its fame to the miracle which occurred  in the 14th century, as well as the presence of a Holy Grail (not THE Holy Grail).
Tradition has it that a weary priest was celebrating Mass one winter´s day. A peasant from a nearby village, having fought his way to the top of the mountain through a fierce snowstorm in order to hear Mass entered the church just as the priest was performing the consecration. The priest insulted the peasant´s faith and ridiculed him for having come all the way to the top of the mountain in such severe weather in order to witness a non-existent miracle. At that very moment, the bread and the wine on the altar were literally transformed into flesh and blood.
The miracle of O Cebreiro was confirmed in 1487 by Pope Innocent VIII while the particles preserved from the miracle were placed in a silver chalice donated by Queen Isabella the Catholic. The chalice image was later incorporated into the shield of Galicia due to its importance to the region.

Miracle or not, O Cebreiro is undoubtedly a magical place to visit. Don't forget to taste the famous queixo do cebreiro with local honey!

Football's over!

So last week was the final match of the World Cup 2010 between Spain and the Netherlands.
It was an exciting tournament with many surprises and small teams reaching higher than the big old famous ones. I was rooting for the underdogs, preferably African countries (Go Ghana!).

I felt kind of bored seeing the same big billionaire teams winning all the time. Brasil, Italy, France, England, Argentina, Germany (although they played very well).. I wanted to see some change, new teams! Obviously I was happy when Spain won the cup!

So now that a week has passed, the world got back to its routine. Tears have dried, laughters have faded, vuvuzelas were put away and conversation topics have changed except maybe for Spain and S. Africa.

So I'd imagine this is what a football field looks like after some time has passed and people got into other things.
I caught this in Spain (what a coincidence) last year outside a tiny slumbering village. I suppose none of the players ever came from this village!

What about you? What were your thoughts about this World Cup 2010? Excited? Disappointed?

The Canal

Before reaching the province of Leon, right after leaving the small village Carrion de los Condes, is this path following a long canal bordered by trees offering a much needed shade. It is a relaxing walk and interesting place to spot many bird species described on signs located along the path.

This canal is quite a welcomed view after walking about 10 days on the Meseta, a plateau that stretches between Leon and Burgos and considered as the "Spanish desert". The Meseta is where most pilgrims grow tired and feel like quitting. But once Leon is reached, the landscape changes again with green hills and rivers to rest by, enhancing the morals.

I always loved getting up early and start walking before sunrise to experience Nature's awakening.
I wasn't the only one. Many others also started walking at dawn in order to advance before the heat settles in.
Or maybe just to be in their own little bubble, away from the crowd, to be able to exorcise their internal demons..

The Pilgrim Tree

Along the Camino de Santiago, right before reaching Hospital de Orbigo, is a an imposing magnificent old tree known as: The Pilgrim tree.
This tree has seen many pilgrims walk under its shade, nap or have a well deserved break to eat a bocadillo after crossing the hilly area past Leon.
When I reached the tree and put down my backpack, I just wandered around enjoying the peace floating around. It was a place of rest and no aggressive sound disturbed the silence.
I also met the young Australian couple as seen on the photo. They were doing the Camino starting from France with a 18-month old little girl! The baby looked so happy and I've never seen a child smile and giggle as much as her.
I guess they simply proved that anything can be done, even a month long trek with a baby if there is a will to do it.

Galician Chalet

Galicia is one of my favorite regions in Spain, located on the North-Western part, right above Portugal. Although it's the most rainy region, I find it extremely beautiful with its mountains, forests and Celtic culture.
I took this shot while on the Camino de Santiago, around the last week before arriving to Santiago de Compostella. There is a steep climb on mount Cebreiro with magnificent landscapes.
Who wouldn't want to live in a chalet like this with this beautiful view every morning?

Pyrénées at dawn.

Most people will tell you that the first day of the Camino de Santiago is the hardest day of the walk (starting from St. Jean Pied-de-Port) and I agree.

Waking up at dawn in this old Basque village, at the foot of the Pyrénées mountains, I start my month long journey with much anticipation.
The temperature outside is freezing on this September morning, and yet my pilgrim companions and I manage to remain brave and start the climb towards the Spanish border instead of waiting in a café for sunrise.
St Jean is located at about 200m (660 ft) above sea level. On the first day, most pilgrims climb towards the Spanish border, at the top of the Pyrénées at 1400m high (4600ft) and back down to Roncesvalles at 400m (1300ft). The climb is pretty steep in some parts on the French side but the scenery is spectacular.
Halfway up to the top on the French side, I turn around to have a look at the hilly landscape still blanketed in mist as the sun slowly rises, radiating its warmth on the breathless pilgrims.
I stop and listen to Nature's awakening, savoring the moment, eyes shining with the excitement and expectation of days to come.

I know at this moment it was worth walking a second time.

Wine Fountain

On the way to Santiago de Compostella, in Spain, near the town of Estella, the pilgrim, after walking many kilometers feels thirsty and weak.

As soon as he passes Estella, an hour later, he reaches a monastery called "Monestario de Irache". This is where the gods finally listen to his plea and offer him this divine sight: A fountain of Red Wine!

Yes yes my friends, I do not joke. This very fountain here delivers free red wine to everyone that passes by. Just open the tap and drink!

The wine fountain was built in 1991 for the pilgrims. Of course, you can't just go and fill your buckets with wine, there are cameras and probably monks will come and scold you.. Or maybe the gods will cast lightning upon you!

So, next time you happen to be walking near Estella. Just continue a bit to reach the monastery and taste this gift from the winery to the pilgrims.

You can also view a live webcam by visiting the official site of the winery here.

Cheers!

Fisterra, the End of the World ~ Spain

Finisterra (or Fisterra in Galician) is the furthest western tip of Spain, before the Atlantic Ocean. It comes from Fin (end) and Terra (Earth) and was actually thought to be the end of the world (the world used to be flat, remember?).

Finisterra is also the end of the Camino de Santiago (St. James way) and the Camino Pagano (Pagan way, older than the Camino de Santiago itself). It's such an emotional moment to reach the last milestone with "0.00 km" written on it, after walking more than 900km from France.

The ritual and traditions say that, upon reaching the Fisterra, you should watch the sunset, pray and burn all your belongings to symbolize purification and a new start. The sunset over the ocean was dramatically amazing and I was lucky to have such a beautiful weather in a region known for being rainy.

French Camino

This picture was taken on the first day of my Camino. It's located on the french side, before the spanish border, near St Jean Pied-de-Port.

It's quite a big change for me to travel from the UAE's chaotic skyscrapers and desert landscapes to the green mountains of the Pyrenees. I just feel connected to the mountains: I am a mountain person I guess.

We started walking late on the first day, not knowing that most pilgrims stop walking around 4~5pm. I guess that's why we were most of the time walking alone.
Reaching the top of the mountain (from 200m to 1400m high in 5hours), we had to stop and camp in the freezing cold, misty and windy weather. The first night was rough but we had such a splendid view from the top in the morning, with an ocean of clouds at our feet. It was worth it!

For those interested, here's a wallpaper version of the same photo uncropped for you to enjoy: 1024x664 , 1280x830 resolutions (click on the "Download button on the top).

The Twin Guardians

This shot was taken in France, about 5 kilometers right before the Spanish border, while walking on the Camino de Santiago.
It was foggy, cold and windy. I captured this shot and wanted to give it a spooky "Sleepy Hollow" mood. Can you hear the headless horseman behind you? Run!