Endless Journey

And the pilgrim walks and walks knowing that the goal is never clear nor important, but the journey is endless and enlightening.

Many of these pilgrims (now good friends) that I have come across keep on walking, again and again, either physically or spiritually. Many don't really know where they are heading, but all know that the journey is what makes us grow and gives us the strength to carry on with our dreams.

"Caminante, no hay camino... Se hace el camino al andar".

"Traveler, there is no path... the path is made by walking".

O Cebreiro Village

On the French route of the Camino de Santiago in Spain, lies a tiny village at the entrance of the Galician province. Sitting on top of a dreaded 1300 meters high mountain pilgrims have to climb (I don't know why.. I enjoyed it!), O Cebreiro, although appearing like a slumbering old village, played quite an important role in the history of the region.

While I was lucky to have a good weather during both my stays (good but freezing), O Cebreiro usually likes to hide under a mysterious foggy blanket. After reaching the Galician border, I felt its presence without seeing it. A faint music was floating all around, transported by the mist. The fog magically disappeared both times I arrived on top of a hill overlooking the old village.
The first thing I noticed was the music. It sounded like Irish music. Celtic to be more precise. Even the architecture of some houses was different with big round stone houses and straw roofs (called pallozas). I later learned that Galicia was of Celtic culture, some even claiming the Irish Celts originated from there.

The main attraction of O Cebreiro however is the pre-Romanesque church of St. Mary, the oldest fully remaining one on the Camino. It played an important part in guiding the pilgrim through the mist with its bell.
The church of St Mary also owes its fame to the miracle which occurred  in the 14th century, as well as the presence of a Holy Grail (not THE Holy Grail).
Tradition has it that a weary priest was celebrating Mass one winter´s day. A peasant from a nearby village, having fought his way to the top of the mountain through a fierce snowstorm in order to hear Mass entered the church just as the priest was performing the consecration. The priest insulted the peasant´s faith and ridiculed him for having come all the way to the top of the mountain in such severe weather in order to witness a non-existent miracle. At that very moment, the bread and the wine on the altar were literally transformed into flesh and blood.
The miracle of O Cebreiro was confirmed in 1487 by Pope Innocent VIII while the particles preserved from the miracle were placed in a silver chalice donated by Queen Isabella the Catholic. The chalice image was later incorporated into the shield of Galicia due to its importance to the region.

Miracle or not, O Cebreiro is undoubtedly a magical place to visit. Don't forget to taste the famous queixo do cebreiro with local honey!

The Canal

Before reaching the province of Leon, right after leaving the small village Carrion de los Condes, is this path following a long canal bordered by trees offering a much needed shade. It is a relaxing walk and interesting place to spot many bird species described on signs located along the path.

This canal is quite a welcomed view after walking about 10 days on the Meseta, a plateau that stretches between Leon and Burgos and considered as the "Spanish desert". The Meseta is where most pilgrims grow tired and feel like quitting. But once Leon is reached, the landscape changes again with green hills and rivers to rest by, enhancing the morals.

I always loved getting up early and start walking before sunrise to experience Nature's awakening.
I wasn't the only one. Many others also started walking at dawn in order to advance before the heat settles in.
Or maybe just to be in their own little bubble, away from the crowd, to be able to exorcise their internal demons..

The Pilgrim Tree

Along the Camino de Santiago, right before reaching Hospital de Orbigo, is a an imposing magnificent old tree known as: The Pilgrim tree.
This tree has seen many pilgrims walk under its shade, nap or have a well deserved break to eat a bocadillo after crossing the hilly area past Leon.
When I reached the tree and put down my backpack, I just wandered around enjoying the peace floating around. It was a place of rest and no aggressive sound disturbed the silence.
I also met the young Australian couple as seen on the photo. They were doing the Camino starting from France with a 18-month old little girl! The baby looked so happy and I've never seen a child smile and giggle as much as her.
I guess they simply proved that anything can be done, even a month long trek with a baby if there is a will to do it.

Wine Fountain

On the way to Santiago de Compostella, in Spain, near the town of Estella, the pilgrim, after walking many kilometers feels thirsty and weak.

As soon as he passes Estella, an hour later, he reaches a monastery called "Monestario de Irache". This is where the gods finally listen to his plea and offer him this divine sight: A fountain of Red Wine!

Yes yes my friends, I do not joke. This very fountain here delivers free red wine to everyone that passes by. Just open the tap and drink!

The wine fountain was built in 1991 for the pilgrims. Of course, you can't just go and fill your buckets with wine, there are cameras and probably monks will come and scold you.. Or maybe the gods will cast lightning upon you!

So, next time you happen to be walking near Estella. Just continue a bit to reach the monastery and taste this gift from the winery to the pilgrims.

You can also view a live webcam by visiting the official site of the winery here.

Cheers!

Pilgrim's Path

"Education must remove hatred between the pilgrims on the various roads to God. There is only one God, one Goal, one Law, one Truth, one Religion and one Reason"

~ Sri Sathya Sai Baba ~

The most amazing experience on the Camino de Santiago is encountering pilgrims. Many people from various nationalities, horizons, religions and color walk this long dirt road.
All carry a personal reason, nobody walks 800km just for fun... But all are here because they seek something in common: They all seek a Truth.

The pilgrim walks on this long road with many others. Although surrounded, he is still walking alone with himself. It is a journey of self-discovery, listening to his own soul, away from the hectic and chaotic life outside the Camino.
He walks towards the same city, the same Goal. He could take a different path, a different road, a different means of transport. And no matter his color or religion, he will still reach the same destination as all others.
The pilgrim is not judged by his social status. He may be a CEO or a farmer, he still walks on the same level as anyone else, sleeps in the same bed as all other pilgrims before him have slept and shares the same food.
The Camino reminds us we are humans after all, stripped naked from our status. We all have the same doubts, fears and all seek the same Goal.

It also reminds us we are all beings of Love. That even the most expensive gadget can not compete with the pleasure of sharing a simple "bocadillo" with another hungry pilgrim, or a comforting smile that gives strength to a tired person, or just the tears of joy when hugging a complete stranger in front of the gates of the Cathedral of Santiago.

The Camino pulls you back on Earth, with everyone else. And teaches you that we all have the same path, same destination, same goal, walking under the comforting shadow of one God/Universe.

Buen Camino peregrino!

"For a moment of night we have a glimpse of ourselves and of our world islanded in a stream of stars - pilgrims of mortality, voyaging between horizons across the eternal seas of space and time".

~ Henry Beston ~

The Twin Guardians

This shot was taken in France, about 5 kilometers right before the Spanish border, while walking on the Camino de Santiago.
It was foggy, cold and windy. I captured this shot and wanted to give it a spooky "Sleepy Hollow" mood. Can you hear the headless horseman behind you? Run!